I've been wanting to move my blog away from Blogspot for a while but could never be bothered to actually do it. This week was the tipping point though, and I've now fully migrated over to https://patsypoomakes.wordpress.com/ . The blogspot address will remain here but all new posts will only appear at https://patsypoomakes.wordpress.com/ . There are lots of reasons for the move but my biggest one is how hard Blogger has made it for people to subscribe to receive new posts via email. It's such a basic requirement but apparently, they think it's too much to offer. I'm basing this purely on how I myself prefer to consume this stuff. I can't be arsed with feed readers anymore and emails are easy and convenient. When I receive one, if I fancy reading it, I will click through to it and, if not, I'll just delete it. Another reason is the spat between Google (owners of Blogger) and Instagram/Facebook/Meta. I don't even know if this is still the case anymore ...
I need to start this post by saying I really love this dress, I have another one planned for very soon and I am very glad I made it. However, I have a massive issue with one particular section of the instructions. It made no sense to me at all. Having been in touch with the designer herself, it now makes a little more sense but I still believe the finish is really rather poor.
I'm talking about the Sheath Dress by The Avid Seamstress. It's a super simple - wait for it! - SHEATH DRESS! 😆 Sorry... It features grown-on sleeves, so the dress has one piece for the front and one piece for the back. The neckline is finished with facings and an optional elastic casing gives the waist some definition. There are also optional pockets, which I omitted (😱I know!!!) but more on that in a bit.
The back has a zip closure as well but I swapped mine out for a loop and button instead. I believe it was a pull-on dress when it was first released, judging by some early reviews. Although it's a bit tight, I can get it over my head without undoing the button.
I used the Atelier Brunette Dune Night viscose crepe, which I got from Fabricate. I really love this fabric. It was a perfect match for this pattern and even though it is on the squirmy side, I use a rotary cutter when I'm cutting out so I didn't have any problems. One of my sleeve hems is a bit weird when stretched flat though. It must have gone off grain while I was cutting it. Oops.
The skirt is very fitted so you have to take your hip measurement into account. There isn't a lot of ease built in there and I'm relieved I didn't size down, which I briefly considered. I'm also thankful for leaving the pockets off even though they were cut. If I had added them, I think they would have caused unnecessary bulk at the front and would ultimately have had to come off.
Oh, I forgot to talk about the sizing. I made a straight UK10 size, which is their size 2, and I'm very happy with how it fits. I love the elasticated waist and it's a very comfortable yet sophisticated dress. I've worn it a couple of times since I made it and it makes me feel great. I think I will lower the elastic channel next time. Only 1 to 1.5 inches, so it sits more on my natural waist than it currently does.
Now for the instructions. When I made the City Trousers I mentioned I wasn't crazy about the way the instructions were written. Very detailed in places and quite sparse in others. The same applies here. However, the instructions on attaching the casing for the elastic had me completely flummoxed.
I got in touch with The Avid Seamstress team after I'd finished and I heard back very quickly. Lisa was lovely and took the time to explain that the edges of the casing are in fact meant to be exposed, albeit overlocked; which the instructions tell you to do to all edges at the very start.
Personally, I think that would result in a rather inferior finish and that's one reason why it never crossed my mind that that's how you're supposed to do it.
I attached mine by pressing the seam allowance on the long edges so I had something to follow when sewing it. I placed the casing face down on top of the dress. I matched the top seam line I'd pressed with the markings on the dress. I sewed that and pressed the seam allowance and the casing down towards the hem. Then, I edgestitched (topstitching on the very edge) the bottom of the channel. The finish is clean and I'm pleased with it - see above. But I'm still unhappy with the elastic on the side seam - see below. The extent of the directions is to "neaten up the edge". I'm not sure what else I could do other than to overlock it, but I think it looks a bit shoddy.
I also think the illustrations are incorrect. Grey denotes RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC according to the booklet but every piece in this section is shown white, including the channel itself and I'm pretty sure you're supposed to sew that with the right side of the fabric facing out. If that's wrong, I don't want to be right. Despite the poor instructions for this step, I didn't really have any issues with the rest of the booklet.
I ultimately love the dress. I think it's very well drafted, simple enough to make and it is a testament to how much I like it that I already have plans for another one. Plus, it's very, very comfortable.